Cheese 2004

In 2004 I wrote this article about cheese for The Age. Back then small cheesemakers as we know them were just about to set up shop. This is a historical snapshot as to what was going on in cheese in Australia at the time. Read this and enjoy in the knowledge that cheese in Australia has flourished. Cheese in Australia is still moribund in regulation but there is hope for better cheese.

Almost every culture produces its own cheeses, with the total number of varieties worldwide in the thousands. Most of the cheeses we eat in Australia reflect waves of migration, so we tend to eat many English, French, Italian, Swiss, Greek and Dutch-style cheeses. Most of these are produced in Australia, but we also import cheese from Europe, Scandinavia and New Zealand. The following is a very simple list of some of the most popular cheeses sold in Australia. All the cheeses mentioned are available in delis and cheese shops throughout Melbourne.

Fresh

FROMAGE FRAIS ("FRESH CHEESE")

Milk that has been transformed through bacterial culture and rennet but not pressed or matured. It is low in fat, high in moisture and is beautifully delicate and slightly tangy. Goat fromage frais such as Faudel's or Holy Goat can be spread on bread with fruit jelly or mixed with salt, oil and lemon and used to fill pasta. Fromage blanc, pictured above, has no added salt, so has an even softer feel in the mouth.

LOGS AND PYRAMIDS

Fresh cheeses are moulded into cylindrical logs, cones or pyramids, most often made from goat's milk. Often, they are coated in a mixture of salt and ash, which provides an instant skin and an ideal environment for moulds to grow. They should be tangy, almost citric.

MOZZARELLA

Traditional Buffalo mozzarella is air-freighted from Italy weekly. The pale little globes have a skin thinner than a mushroom's and are filled with a slightly salty, tangy mouthful of moist cheese perfumed with the rose-like aroma associated with buffalo-milk products. Industrial mozzarella is made from the stretched curd of cow's milk, giving it the characteristic long strings when melted, called "the pull" in pizza advertising parlance.

RICOTTA

A by-product of the cheese industry, "ricotta" means re-cooked. When liquid whey drains from the solid, junkety curds, it still contains some protein, which, when heated in the presence of a little acid, coagulates into small lumps. This rindless, lumpy cheese is low in fat and forms the basis of countless diets as well as Italian sauces, fritters, desserts and cakes.

White mould

BRIE

In France, it was once called the king of cheeses, although recent imitators have dulled its reputation. French brie is a large disc of cow's milk-covered in a velvety coating of mould that becomes flakier and more speckled when mature. It's traditionally served towards the end of the meal. Australian brie can be excellent but is often produced in small discs and sold too young. Look for mature cheeses with a slight dip in the middle to indicate a ripe, soft centre.

CAMEMBERT

A 10cm disc of cow's milk cheese first made about the time of the French Revolution. Presented in transparent paper, it should have a soft, white coating of mould with a few orange streaks. A good, ripe camembert should have a bulge in the centre, delicate aromas and a full, creamy flavour.

AUSTRALIAN WHITE MOULD CHEESES

Australia's artisan cheesemakers have embraced the tradition of making a cheese with a luxurious mould exterior that slowly ripens the curd within. Such cheeses come in a variety of shapes and sizes but always look for individual cheeses that bulge, indicating a smooth, silky interior. They should also have an aroma characteristic of the milk used in goat's, cow's, etc and should not smell ammonic. A good example is Kangaroo Island Brie, which is made in a way that allows it to ripen like traditional French bries.

Edith's cheese is a squat cylinder of sweet/acid goat's milk, starting off with a moist, grainy texture, softening to a centre of almost liquid velvet, then hardening as it ages further. Best in autumn and spring.

Washed rind

TALEGGIO

Classic Italian cow's milk cheese made in Lombardy and best when ripened in caves. When ripe, its large, flat squares are covered in a pink/orange rind, while inside is a white to yellow centre of smooth, rich, soft cheese that is simultaneously yeasty, salty, fruity and fragrant. It is luxurious in cooking and often combined with Swiss brown mushrooms.

PONT L'EVEQUE

A cow's milk cheese from Normandy with a heritage going back to the 12th century. This yellow/orange rectangle, sold in a little wooden box, has the aroma of sweet earth when ripe. To serve and keep moist, cut in half, then cut slices from the open edges, placing the cheese back together between meals. Milawa Gold is a good local alternative.

Blue

GORGONZOLA

Veins of blue mould interlace the creamy pate of this sweet, moist, Italian, cow's milk cheese. Probably the world's second-most sought cheese following Roquefort (a benchmark cheese made from raw sheep's milk but banned in Australia and New Zealand the only countries to do so). Try the textural sensation of gorgonzola spread over a slice of granular pear or crumble through a smooth-blended soup. One of Australia's best gorgonzola-style cheeses is Gippsland Blue.

STILTON

A firm, cream-coloured, English blue cheese made from cow's milk. Savoured with a glass of port or good red wine, it is at its best when there is an even distribution of blue veins, a smooth feel in the mouth and long, sweet/sharp flavours. King Island's Endeavour Blue has been favourably compared with English Stilton.

Semi-hard

CHEDDAR

Real cheddar is clothbound and comes from Somerset in England, but Australia makes good cheddar, too, such as Pyengana from Tasmania. The process of cheddaring involves scalding the curd and then stacking it into blocks to press out more whey. It is bound in cloth, pressed and then stored for about a year. Good cheddar smells of sweet, cooked milk and has a nutty taste. Its acidity carries through other flavours, so it can be enjoyed with condiments or grated through a cheese sauce cauliflower cheese made with good cheddar is brilliant. Avoid waxed or vacuum-packed cheddars.

RACLETTE

Warmed by the coals of the fire, the half-round of raclette is scraped and the melted cheese is served with boiled potatoes, pickled onions and gherkins. A Swiss speciality, this pungent cheese is also made here.

GOUDA

A firm but elastic cheese made from cow's milk and waxed for storage. A pleasant, palatable cheese that can offer stronger flavours as it matures. Use younger cheeses for lighter dishes and more mature cheeses for stronger dishes such as gratins or tarts. Very similar to edam.

Hard

GRUYERE

Both the Swiss and French lay claim to this firm, golden cheese that is made in mountainous regions from cow's milk. The curds are cooked to release more whey, making a harder cheese and creating the nutty, caramelised flavours. Gruyere is similar to emmentaler, but has smaller eyeholes. Australia's Heidi Gruyere is one of our best.

PARMESAN

Made from skimmed cow's milk that is cooked, drained, dried and then coated. As it matures, the cheese hardens, its granular texture improves and the aroma intensifies. A perfect table cheese, Parmigiano Reggiano can only be made in Italy using traditional techniques. Grana Padano is considered a poor cousin to reggiano. It is more granular, less complex flavoured but still ideal for grating.

Other

FETA

A sheep's cheese made from fresh curds washed in a salt brine. It's traditionally Greek, though much of our feta comes from Bulgaria. Australian versions are often presented marinated in oil with herbs and garlic. Imported feta can be too salty and may need washing before crumbling into dishes such as spanakopita. Brining and marinating help improve the shelf life of this fresh cheese.

GRAVIERA

Perfect for saganaki. Thin slabs of this firm, granular sheep's or sheep and goat's cheese from Greece are fried in butter and oil and sprinkled with lemon juice. Kefalograviera contains cow's milk. Hellenic Farm in Epping makes a popular graviera.

WHERE TO BUY

Some places we recommend for good cheese include:

- Richmond Hill Cafe and Larder, Richmond - Myer and David Jones food halls (David Jones re-opening soon) - Milawa Cheese Shop, North Carlton - French Cheese Shop, Queen Victoria Market - Bill's Farm, Queen Victoria Market - Curds and Whey, Queen Victoria Market - Simon Johnson, Fitzroy and Toorak - Blue Cow Deli, Deer Park - Cliffy's, Daylesford - Leo's Supermarket - Selected IGA, including Castlemaine and Renaissance, Hawthorn - Mediterranean Wholesalers, Brunswick